Ingredient Dossier

Unlike pure L-Ascorbic Acid, this ether derivative is highly stable against light/heat and easily penetrates the skin's lipid barrier.

Works best in aqueous solutions. Efficacy is dose-dependent, typically recommended at 3%-10% of the commercial solution.

Low water solubility (approx 0.5% at room temp). Add to water phase at high temp or keep concentration low to avoid crystallization.

Can be used to replace water in a formulation for a 'waterless' or more premium ingredient deck claim.

The preferred choice for "Soap-Free" professional cleansers. Leaves zero tightness after rinsing.

Can be difficult to solubilize in high concentrations. Often requires specific solvents or suspension systems in emulsion formulas.

Photostable, making it suitable for day-use anti-aging formulas. The #1 selling point for sensitive skin lines.

Superior to glycerin in terms of "tackiness"; Betaine provides a smooth sensory profile. It is also a key ingredient for protecting skin cells against environmental stress and dehydration.

An excellent "Prebiotic" ingredient to balance skin microflora and prevent sensitivity.

High-stability ferment perfect for luxury night repair serums. Works best with Vitamin C.

Great carrier for oil-soluble actives. Non-comedogenic profile makes it versatile for all skin types.

Requires neutralization (e.g., with Sodium Hydroxide or TEA) to thicken. pH sensitive; viscosity drops in very acidic or high-salt environments.

Look for titrated extracts containing specific levels of active compounds like Madecassoside and Asiaticoside for verifiable claims.

Best utilized in a multi-ceramide blend (NP, AP, EOP) combined with cholesterol and fatty acids in a specific ratio to mimic skin's natural lipid layer.

Essential for "Golden Ratio" barrier repair (Ceramides + Cholesterol + Fatty Acids).

Used as a 50% solution to lower pH of formulations. Add dropwise.

High pH (11-12) as supplied; requires pH adjustment in final formula. Excellent for sensitive skin cleansers.

We utilize low-molecular-weight hydrolyzed collagen (under 2000 Daltons) to ensure superior dermal penetration compared to standard collagen.

High-value active for prestige anti-aging lines. Incorporate at the cool-down phase below 40掳C to maintain efficacy. Avoid strong oxidizing agents.

Ensure it is non-GMO if claiming natural/clean. Must be kept dry before emulsion; generally added at the end or in oil phase.

Available in various viscosities (fluids to gums). Low viscosity (e.g., 5 cst) is volatile/light; High viscosity (e.g., 350 cst) is substantive/protective.

Crucial for clear gels and Vitamin C formulas. Add to water phase first to bind ions in water source.

A rising star for 'anti-pollution' and 'barrier repair' claims. Highly stable and easy to incorporate into the water phase.

Superior stability compared to Vitamin C. Uses the OCTN-1 transporter for highly efficient cellular penetration.

Reduces the surface tension of the cell membrane of microorganisms, allowing the primary preservative to penetrate better.

Currently the hottest topic in high-end professional skincare. Requires specialized cold-chain logistics and formulation handling to maintain biological activity.

Use plant-derived sources like Borage or Evening Primrose for high purity and low irritation.

Often the key to stabilizing L-Ascorbic acid formulas. It can impart a slight characteristic scent to the final product.

Solubilize in surfactant or oil phase. Watch for allergens (EU 26 allergens list). 'Clean' formulations often limit to <1% or exclude.

Can be sticky at high concentrations (>5%). Often paired with glycols or water-soluble silicones to improve texture.

Requires pH adjustment (pH 3.5-4.0) for optimal free acid value vs. irritation potential. Sunscreen use is mandatory with AHA products.

EGCG is the most active catechin. Ensure the extract is standardized for high EGCG content for functional acne or protective products.

We recommend a blend of High, Medium, and Low molecular weights for full-spectrum hydration. High MW seals surface; Low MW penetrates deeper.

Must be thoroughly milled/dispersed to avoid streaks. Often sold as pre-dispersed slurries for easier manufacturing.

Heightened oxidative stability compared to most vegetable oils. Excellent for balancing facial oils and cleansers.

Formulation challenge: highly unstable in water. Requires low pH (<3.5) for penetration. Consider anhydrous (water-free) silicone bases for maximum stability.

Contains allergens (Linalool, Limonene). Photo-toxicity potential is low for Lavender but high for Citrus oils.

Glabridin is the key active component for whitening. Ensure your extract has a specified percentage of Glabridin for efficacy.

Particle size defines effect: <20um (satin/pearl), >100um (sparkle/glitter). Source responsibly (child labor concerns in mining).

Highly stable active. Ideal for 2%-10% concentration serums. Avoid mixing with very low pH acids (like L-Ascorbic Acid) in the same formula to prevent potential flushing.

Colloidal oatmeal is FDA-monographed as a skin protectant. Excellent for barrier repair creams and sensitive skin ranges.

Not photo-stable on its own; degrades in sunlight. Should be stabilized with other filters or photo-stabilizers.

Can create lamellar liquid crystal structures which mimic skin barrier. Adds viscosity and stability to O/W emulsions.

A reliable, proven workhorse for anti-aging formulations. Synergistic effect when combined with other peptides.

Very stable and easy to formulate into water phases. A staple for sensitive skin and post-procedure recovery lines.

Ideal for "Sensitive-Safe" resurfacing products. Stability is pH-dependent (works best at pH 5-7).

Popularized by Korean dermatology clinics ('Salmon injections'). Now available for topical formulations targeting profound repair.

Standard ratio 3:1 or 5:1 (Solubilizer:Oil) to obtain clear solutions. Waxy solid or viscous liquid at room temp; heat to melt.

Weak against fungi/mold; usually paired with Ethylhexylglycerin or Potassium Sorbate. Inactivated by high ethoxylated surfactants.

Use high purity grade for maximum efficacy. Excellent for mature skin lines focusing on volume loss and firmness.